If you’d like to take a little trip back in time to the Middle Ages, Bavaria has more than enough options. If you’d also like to visit a city wall, your path will quickly lead you to Nördlingen or Rothenburg ob der Tauber. If you’re already familiar with these two destinations, you should head to Dinkelsbühl instead next time. This small town in Middle Franconia still has a well-preserved historic center, and its charming little houses invite you to stroll and explore.
The Pious Spelt Farmer
A settlement has existed on the banks of the Wörnitz River in what is now Dinkelsbühl since 730. According to legend, a spelt farmer built a chapel here and gave grain to passing monks. This chapel later gave rise to the Carmelite monastery, which no longer exists; St. Paul’s Church now stands in its place. You can still catch a glimpse of the pious spelt farmer in Dinkelsbühl—for example, as a sculpture in the city park.
No one knows for sure how much truth there is to this myth. However, by 1130 at the latest, the town layout we see today—which forms the inner Old Town—had taken shape. Unlike other medieval towns, Dinkelsbühl never had its own dedicated market square. Instead, trade simply took place in the streets, with each type of goods having its own designated spot. There was a livestock market, a wine market, a lard market, a pork market, a lumber market, a bread market, and more. Even today, some of the streets still bear the names of these markets, such as Ledermarkt (Leather Market) or Weinmarkt (Wine Market).
Starting in the 14th century, the city walls were finally built, forming a ring around the Old Town. The wall has been preserved to this day and features 20 towers and four city gates through which you can enter the Old Town. Unlike in other cities, you unfortunately cannot walk atop Dinkelsbühl’s city wall, but you can take a 2.5-kilometer stroll along it to circle the town center.
Old Ruins in Dinkelsbühl
Dinkelsbühl’s townscape is characterized above all by its many colorful half-timbered houses and townhouses, most of which are more than 350 years old. You definitely shouldn’t miss the ensemble of buildings around the Weinmarkt. Here you’ll also discover the late-Gothic St. George’s Cathedral, considered one of the most significant hall churches in southern Germany. If you’d like to discover even more stone buildings, visit the Old Town Hall and the city mill at the Nördlinger Gate.
If you’re more in the mood for pretty half-timbered houses, take a detour to the Deutsches Haus, where you can dine in its restaurant. Or head over to the imposing Kinderzech’ Zeughaus, a half-timbered building housing a museum dedicated to the Kinderzeche. This is Dinkelsbühl’s most important local festival, which has its roots in the Thirty Years’ War and is still celebrated every July. The brave girl Lore is said to have stood up to the Swedes, whereupon their hearts were softened and they did not invade Dinkelsbühl. You’ll learn more about the festival’s history at the museum, where you’ll also discover historical artifacts and props.
If you’d rather party to heavy metal and rock than to folk music and brass bands, you’ll feel right at home at Summer Breeze for a festival weekend. If that’s too loud for you, you can find peace and quiet along the Wörnitz River or at one of the ponds outside the city walls. Dinkelsbühl has many lovely gardens and lush green spaces that invite you to recharge your batteries and linger.
