In Bavaria, there are quite a few monasteries with magnificent churches to discover, such as the complex in Fürstenfeldbruck with the “Bavarian Escorial” or Baumburg Monastery with its Rococo gem, St. Margaret’s. But alongside all the pomp and ostentation, there were also monks who lived very modestly and limited themselves to the bare essentials. The little monastery near Kelheim, formerly the Trauntal Monastery, is an example of such an institution, demonstrating that sometimes less is more. Precisely because the people here lived so modestly and secluded lives, settling in simple rock caves, the place continues to fascinate visitors to this day.
The Cave Brothers
Anyone thinking of a monastery at the Danube Gorge naturally thinks of Weltenburg Abbey right away. In the past, however, there was another settlement here belonging to a different religious order, whose remains tell a fascinating story. In the Middle Ages, the Franciscan friar Antonius discovered 18 caves in the rocky gorges of the Weltenburger Enge on the Danube. He decided to settle here and lead a simple life. To this end, he not only made a home for himself but also built a chapel, which he dedicated to Saint Nicholas.
However, Antonius was not to remain alone for long, as other friars soon joined him. They did not last long in the so-called “Bruderloch,” though, because the proximity to the Danube posed a risk of flooding and the caves were too damp. In 1471, the Franciscan monastery was finally relocated to Kelheim. Nevertheless, the Trauntal monastery remained in the possession of the Third Order of St. Francis until it was dissolved in 1802 as part of the secularization process.
The Little Monastery Today
Since 1880, the “Kösterl”—as the Trauntal Monastery is popularly known—has housed a tavern. Here, you could enjoy Bavarian home-style cooking and delicious cakes, and when the weather was nice, you could sit outside in the idyllic beer garden. There used to be another beer hall in the “Goldofen”: In this cave in the northern part of the grounds, the monks are said to have attempted to extract gold from the sand of the Danube. They also wanted to build a well here, but were unsuccessful.
Other parts of the monastery complex include the brothers’ living caves, St. Nicholas Chapel, and the cave church. The latter was likely built in the 17th century and is one of the few rock churches in Europe with a natural roof. On one side, it is enclosed by a wall adorned with weathered frescoes, above which a terracotta figure of St. Nicholas is perched. For a long time, the church was inaccessible until Hermann Riemann purchased it and reopened it to the general public. Unfortunately, he had to close it again for health reasons and is currently looking for a buyer. The future of the site is still uncertain, but perhaps you’ll be able to visit it in person soon.
