If anyone knew how to appreciate the beauty of the Bavarian landscape, it was King Ludwig II. He enjoyed swimming across the Alpsee at the foot of his Neuschwanstein Castle or meeting his cousin Sisi on Roseninsel in Lake Starnberg. Less well-known, however, are the Soiern Lakes in the Karwendel Mountains, where he enjoyed the peace and quiet. If you, too, are longing for an idyllic spot with a magnificent view—and one that also has a fascinating history—then you should follow the King’s example and take a trip here.
A Royal Retreat
The two Soiern Lakes lie directly below the Soiernspitze at an altitude of over 1,500 meters and are only 65 meters apart. The two lakes, shimmering in shades ranging from turquoise to emerald green, are therefore called the “Eyes of Heaven.” And it really is heavenly here, as Ludwig II himself discovered. In 1866, he commissioned master carpenter Schwarzenberger from Lenggries to build several houses around the lakes. While his servants spent the night in the huts along the shore, he himself lived in the Soiernhaus, 70 meters above the lakes. From there, he could enjoy the view of the two Soiern Lakes and the mountains of the Soierngruppe.
Special paths were built for the king so that he could ride his horse up to his cabin and down into the cirque. He first visited the mountains in 1868 and subsequently spent many individual summer days in the Karwendel. It is said that Ludwig particularly enjoyed rowing out onto the Soierseen lakes during a full moon . His staff would haul the boat up into the mountains with great effort. And even though he preferred to celebrate his birthday at the royal residence on the Schachen, he sometimes spent August 25 here and had fires lit all around the shores.
The Soiern Lakes: A Dream Destination
If you want to experience the beauty of the Soiern Lakes for yourself, the best way is to set out on a hike into the Soierngruppe from Mittenwald. From there, follow the Isar River for a short while before turning onto the forest trail toward Fischbachalm and beginning the ascent to the Soiernhaus. At the Oberes Soiernhaus, you can stop for a meal and even spend the night from May through October. Dining and staying overnight where King Ludwig II once did the same—that’s not something you can do just anywhere! Enjoy the wonderful view of the two Soiern Lakes, just as the King saw them, before venturing down to the two bodies of water.
They’re framed by a total of six mountain peaks, which are reflected in the clear water. If you look toward the Soiernhaus, you’ll discover the beautiful waterfall, which plunges and flows down the mountain in several tiers over a total of more than 130 meters. You can swim in the lakes themselves, though the water is very cold even in the height of summer. If ice swimming isn’t really your thing, you should instead visit one of the other lakes in the Karwendel, such as the Grubsee or the Geroldsee. Either way, the two Soiern Lakes are definitely a sight to behold , whether viewed up close or high above from the hut.
