Anyone setting out from Munich to explore Bavarian rock architecture will likely end up at the Stein an der Traun cave castle. And rightly so, as it attracts visitors not only with its unique architecture but also with the exciting legend of the robber baron Heinz. But there are also other, far more modest dwellings to discover: The House Without a Roof in Kallmünz is Germany’s only cave dwelling still in use today.
The centuries-old dwelling in the rock
The picturesque village of Kallmünz in the Upper Palatinate is a good 90 minutes from Munich, and its charming little houses have inspired many an artist. Towering above the village are the ruins of Spornburg Castle, which you can spot from a distance. Hidden within the rock of this castle, however, is a far more inconspicuous structure—the House Without a Roof—which is unique in Germany. The earliest mention of this cave dwelling dates back to 1707 in the land registry archives of the city of Amberg. To this day, it remains unknown exactly how old the cave is and when it first became inhabited.
The house without a roof is located in a dolomite rock formation about 50 meters high on the Schlossberg in Kallmünz. A limestone massif about 20 meters high towers above the cave. Today, no one lives there anymore because it is too damp inside. The last resident developed rheumatism for this reason and moved out in 1937. Nevertheless, it is still privately owned. The owner stops by every day to tend to the flowers by the window and in front of the door.
The house without a roof from the inside
Even though it still bears the name “House Without a Roof,” the cave dwelling now actually has a roof to keep water out. The cave’s opening has been sealed with a wall featuring two doors and a window. Inside are a hallway, a living room, two storage rooms, and a smokehouse, and the furniture is still there.
Unfortunately, the house without a roof is not open to the public. However, its striking green wall and the decorative flower boxes in front of the gray rock face make it a unique photo opportunity. You can also visit the castle ruins above the cave dwelling. You can climb the well-preserved keep, from which you can enjoy a wonderful view of Kallmünz and the surrounding landscape.
